Under the microscope: Sensitive skin

We usually define skin as sensitive if (most) skin care products cause stinging, redness, burning, dryness and tightness when applied.

But very dry skin and skin that frequently develops skin bumps and is prone to break-outs is also classified as sensitive skin.

It is possible your skin just can't deal with some product/ingredients that your friends daily put on their skin and that's ok (you'll find some other products). But keep in mind an ongoing sensitivity may indicate that you’re dealing with an underlying condition like eczema (also known as atopic dermatitis), rosacea, psoriasis (patches of scaly, dry skin) or contact dermatitis (rashes triggered by contact with irritants or allergens).

What actually causes sensitive skin?

We all have a protective fatty outer layer on our skin and is often referred to as a lipid barrier. Her two main jobs are: keeping water in and keeping potentially damaging things out.

People with sensitive skin, have typically a weaker and thinner skin barrier that gets easily damaged. This makes it easy for irritants to enter the skin, which can cause inflammation, and the moisture can easily escape, leaving your skin even drier.

My bumpy skin that easily breaks out

Symptoms to look out for:

1. Your skin flushes and turns red easily - redness is a common sign

2. Frequent rashes and tiny red bumps

3. Beauty products sting or burn - whether it’s a cleanser, moisturizer, foundation or sunscreen, your skin reacts

4. You have dry patches

5. You have broken capillaries on your nose and cheeks

6. Fragrances irritate your skin

7. Your skin reacts to weather changes - cold, windy days are an immediate trigger

8. You break out easily - sensitive, dry skin may produce extra oils to try to compensate for the lack of contained moisture. Which can lead to clogged pores and breakouts.

Skincare ingredients you should avoid if your skin is sensitive

Essential oils

Even natural or organic ingredients can lead to irritation.

Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and Sodium laureth sulphate (SLES)

These foaming agents can be quite tough on the skin, as they can upset the protective layer and dry your skin out. Unfortunately, almost all cleansing product contain at least one of them.

Petrochemicals and synthetic emollients

Chemicals such as liquid paraffin and mineral oil are known irritants as they create an oily layer on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping, which will leave your skin plumped up and temporarily erase wrinkles, but on the other hand they also blocks pores and can causes a build up of bacteria. A better option is to look for plant oils (jojoba and almond oil).

Fragrance

Many skincare products contain fragrance to mask less-pleasant scents that some ingredients have, but even if an added fragrance is natural, it can cause irritation.

When you’re looking for fragrance-free products, make sure to pay attention to “fragrance-free” labels versus “unscented” ones. “Fragrance-free” usually means that no additional scents were added to the product, while “unscented” means that an ingredient was added to mask the smell of the product.

Harsh exfoliants

Even if your skin isn't sensitive, using an exfoliator that is too abrasive can start an inflammation process within your skin, not to mention the micro damages. Although you shouldn’t avoid exfoliating completely - choosing gentler versions is key if your trying to avoid any skin flare-ups.

Lactic acid is a good option for sensitive skin because it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as other acids.

Alcohol

Products that contain alcohol (like many astringents) can dry out skin and affect how it rejuvenates itself, which can be a death sentence to sensitive skin. Triple-check that none of your products contain denatured alcohol (ethyl alcohol - etanol).

This is a list of some common irritating Ingredients to keep in mind when shopping for skincare products:

Ammonia, Balm mint, Benzoyl peroxide, Camphor, Citrus juices and oils, Eucalyptus, Fennel oil, Geranium, Grapefruit, Lavender, Lemon, Lemongrass, Lime, Menthol, Menthoxypropanediol, Menthyl lactate, Mint, Orange, Parfum, Peppermint, Rose oil, Salicylic acid, Sandalwood oil, Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate, Sodium lauryl sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate,

Witch hazel, ...

Awesome ingredients to keep on your radar

Rich emollients

They mimic the skin's natural water resistant barrier, which is, as we already know, usually damaged in a sensitive skin type.

Such ingredients include safflower oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil and almond oil, which work to strengthen the skin's outer barrier, preventing irritants from penetrating, and help to normalize the skin.

Centella asiatica

One of the latest trendy ingredients from Korea. It has been used for centuries to heal, repair and calm the skin. Fun fact: It’s also been known to be a pretty powerful anti-ager, making it a great ingredient to look out for if you also want to fight wrinkles.

The antioxidant-rich ingredient is also known as Asiatic acid, hydrocotyl or gotu kola, and you’d usually find it in a type of moisturiser called cica cream.

Chamomile

While you may be more familiar with chamomile as a nurturing herbal tea, her abilities to comfort and heal skin are incredible. On top of that, it’s got some impressive anti-inflammatory and antibacterial benefits, so those dealing with acne, eczema and burns may find it particularly appealing. Keep a look out for an ingredient called ‘bisabolol’ in your skin care products, as this is a chamomile extract.

Other skin-soothing ingredients are linoleic acid, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, white and green tea extract, ...